These are stories about friends, family and people I interview along the way and various stories.
Early morning, before the sun rises, a huge cruise ship glides past, lit up like a Christmas tree. It is on its way to drop off hundreds, perhaps thousands, of passengers for a few hours in town, letting them loose on this relatively small and…
When I first told friends, family, and colleagues about this voyage, their reactions followed a familiar pattern. First came the amazement, the delight, even envy at the chance to do such a trip. But a nanosecond later came the inevitable question: “Do you really think…
Ships, ships, and more ships. Strangers passing in the night. Or are they really strangers?
Impressionistic I thought they painted By squinting their eyes near shut Here my eyes wide open. Another world Daily 10K steps Between the storms and calm seas No smoking is home. Land at last It slips into view I hoped it would never come Still…
When I was on the vessel, we went through some severe storms. It was exhilarating and frightening in equal measure. At times, it felt like a rollercoaster, thrilling in its intensity, almost fun in its wildness. At other times, after nights of little sleep, it…
A steady hand on deck Every ship has its engines, its navigation systems, its officers. But none of it works without the people who keep the decks in order, climb into the holds, and carry out the relentless physical work a bulk carrier demands. Michael…
In this interview, Chief Officer Gokhan reflects on life and leadership at sea. He describes working with an international crew of twelve nationalities, the constant rhythm of inspections, planning, and unexpected challenges, and the importance of psychological safety alongside technical skills. His focus on explaining…
I am slowly coming to the close of “Pics of the week” from aboard the MV Roland Oldendorff. As you can imagine, I'm bringing hundreds of photos back home. All along I tried to delete as much as I could, but it was impossible to…
Nigel and I talk through the stormy reality of polar navigation, from spotting the first iceberg to the training and judgement that keep ships safe in icy waters. Our conversation blends history, science, and lived experience, as Nigel draws on his background in oceanography to…
Unexpected visitors Sunrise on wing tips Open seas with open heart Joy in small pleasures. Reaching the point of no return Ice forming on top Too early to say goodbye To here and summer. Waking up to the dawn Sitting on the bridge Feeling so…
Gijón, Spain – September 24 Date and time: 24.09.25, 17:00 Location: LAT 43.33°, LON 0.41° SOG (speed over ground): 0 knots Wind: 12 knots We have arrived at last. The MV Roland Oldendorff is safely berthed in Gijón, northern Spain, under blue skies and calm…
The thought of going home brings me to a familiar puzzle: how does a journey live on after it ends? That feels like the real question. Rather than imagining myself as someone transformed and returning with a bag full of new and better habits, it…
The dolphin-style captain The first thing you notice about Captain Paing Phyo is not his authority but his calm attention. He listens closely, nodding as the second officer explains a detail, or smiling gently as a cadet finds the right words. His presence sets the…
Bay of Biscay – September 23 Date and time: 23.09.25, 15:00 Location: LAT 46.24°, LON 10.00° SOG (speed over ground): 11.5 knots Wind: 12.9 knots The sea is calm and generous today, filled with encounters that feel like small gifts. Whales swam by in steady…
Spain Ahead – September 22 Date and time: 22.09.25, 11:30 Location: LAT 49.44°, LON 15.39° SOG (speed over ground): 11.2 knots Wind: 15 knots We are close enough now to hear Spanish over the VHF, a sure sign that the coast is near. The past…
This past week gave us just about every kind of weather the sea can offer. We had sun and clear skies, sudden squalls, heavy rain, and winds that set the ship rolling from side to side. In celebration of the fact that we are now…
English Channel – September 21 Date and time: 21.09.25, 13:00 Location: LAT 51.58°, LON 20.45° SOG (speed over ground): 11.2 knots Wind: 5.6 knots The sea is calm and bright today, the sky wide open with sunlight. Long rolling swells still shift the deck underfoot,…
North Atlantic – September 20 Date and time: 20.09.25, 12:00 Location: LAT 54.25°, LON 27.30° SOG (speed over ground): 11.5 knots Wind: 4.7 knots The day brought a small drama when the engine had to be shut down for a fuel change, the filters clogged,…
In this conversation, Louie explains how storms are monitored and what precautions the crew takes to prepare cabins and secure the ship. He and Lia reflect on the atmosphere of the bridge, the importance of teamwork, and the demanding maintenance tasks that continue even on…
The internet has not been working well for the last week, so instead of talking through these questions, I will write my answers down. What is it like navigating the waters or the harbour with other ships around? Is there anything that you noticed about…