We are in Narvik Harbour on a rainy, grey day, as the loading continues after a breakdown caused a delay. While we wait to see if everything can be finished in time, I take the chance to answer some of the thoughtful questions you have…
I spent quite a few hours today up on the bridge, mostly just looking out at the water. There was nothing to see, really. No land in sight. Just a wide, endless sea. And somewhere in that stillness, I realized I was missing Dave. Not…
Someone asked me recently what exactly this voyage is. Is it an adventure? A vacation? How do I see it? Before boarding in Lübeck, I thought of it as an adventure. The sort of thing I told people, and even strangers about with anticipation and…
This morning, I watched as iron ore poured into hold number three. There was no dust or dirt, nothing grimy or messy, but more like dark water, a black river streaming down. Beautiful in its own way. Because it is Sunday, there is no point…
A few of you have asked for photo. I was trying to figure out how to do something fancypancy, but in the end, I decided to do low tech. Please enjoy. This week has been spent anchored before the wonderful port of Narvik. So, this…
The ship’s normal routine is broken by seven short blasts followed by one long. The Chief Officer announces that this is an abandon ship drill. Crew members move quickly to the muster area, donning life jackets and carrying their immersion suits. The atmosphere is calm…
A few of you have asked for photos. I was trying to figure out how to do something fancypancy, but in the end, I decided to do low tech. Please enjoy. This week has been spent anchored before the wonderful port of Narvik. So, this…
Before I left for this voyage, the family gave me a short list of rules. “Guidelines,” they called them. I called them “terms and conditions,” though apparently I did not get to negotiate. The first was simple: stay safe. This came with the sailor’s mantra,…
When teamwork flows, there are moments of absolute bliss. That feeling of unison, when everyone is doing what needs to be done and the whole thing works, is something quite marvellous. Dave had three simple rules for teamwork. First, everyone must know what tasks they…
Starring out from the bridge White sea foam churning A wave breaking on the bow Like moving marble. Photo by Peter Fogden on Unsplash Before the crew comes to work on deck The seas have calmed down Waddling on my sea legs Doing 10K steps. Doing stomach flips…
(Disclaimer: I get Upper Deck and Deck A mix up. The moment I leave the officers’ mess and go down the stairs, I am talking about the Upper Deck.) In this episode, I take you on a tour of my home at sea, a five-deck…
For all that I praise Dave for his skills as a captain, there was one area of his personality that drove me crazy. It is hard to describe, but he always assumed the boat was ready to sail whenever the winds were fair, regardless of…
This afternoon, the decks came alive with rescue drills. This is a procedure that has to be repeated every three months. First, the lifeboat was swung out from the stern of Deck B and lowered into the water, the crane groaning slightly like my knees…
One of the ways my father, Dave, used to keep us busy on rainy days on the boat was to hand us each a length of rope and an old book on knots. Going by the decrepit condition of the book, he must have had…
One of the first things I learned on board is that “chop chop” is not an order to hurry up. It means “have you eaten,” “do you want to go eat,” or simply “go eat.” There is usually a small hand motion to go with…
Date and time: 10.08.25, 11:00 Location: LAT 68.29°, LON 17.25° SOG (speed over ground): 0.0 knots (at anchorage) Wind: 20.2 knots I woke at 3.30 this morning as we entered the fjord, and it was fantastic. I’m not sure if it was the midnight sun,…
One of the great delights of being on board has already begun to reveal itself: getting to know the crew. I was told, again and again, how diverse the group would be, and it’s true. We come from different countries, languages, and life experiences, but…
Date and time: 09.08.25, 11:00 Location: LAT 66.21°, LON 10.12° SOG (speed over ground): 8.3 knots Wind: 22.2 knots It was a calm night, and I managed to sleep well. Hallelujah. All seven holds are now clean. The crew is finishing the last bit of…
The boat has been a hive of activity today. Over the last two days, 46 pallets have been brought on board. Not dainty little parcels either. Spare parts for the engine room, endless paint, and everything we need to stay fed for the journey ahead.
Date and time: 08.08.25, 11:00 Location: LAT 63.30°, LON 04.39° SOG (speed over ground): 10.9 knots Wind: 28 knots, gusting higher The wind was up to 40 knots in the night with waves at least four or five meters, according to the captain. It made…