Travelogue: nearing Scotland

Off the English Coast – August 30
Date and time: 30.08.25, 12:30
Location: LAT 57.31°, LON 00.35°
SOG (speed over ground): 13.8 knots
Wind: 12.3 knots

Since leaving Hamburg we have covered 340 nautical miles (630 km), carried along by steady winds and favourable currents. The ship feels as if she is charging forward, keeping fine speed and rhythm with the sea. Life on board is settling again. Nigel, our Canadian polar expert, gave a talk this morning to the officers about what to expect in Arctic waters, from double watches to practicalities of collaboration. He has also agreed to let me record a podcast with him, which I am very much looking forward to.

The day itself has been beautiful. Early this morning I sat on deck wrapped in layers against a cool breeze. By midday I was down to a fleece, and even that felt too warm under the sun. The presence of both the extra chief mate and Nigel lends an added sense of confidence, as if we know the ship is being well guided toward the journey ahead.

By late afternoon we will pass between the north of Scotland and the Orkneys, a stretch my parents once cruised in their own boat. I helped deliver that boat years ago from La Rochelle to Glasgow, before they spent the summer exploring the west coast, the Hebrides, and the Orkneys. Later we brought it all the way back to Grenada. Passing here again, though this time from the bridge of a bulk carrier, brings back those memories in a flood. And in the meantime, I am grateful for the chance to know the people on board a little better with each passing day.